During my college years, I was a quarterback at Cal. Playing College football meant my free time was extremely limited. Whenever I could get away for a half-day trip I tried to hit the local water to practice my other passion, fly fishing. The nearest river with a decent trout population was Putah Creek, a tailwater that drains the eastern edge of Napa’s wine country and comes out of lake Beryessa. This creek is known for being fickle. Less than an hour outside of the San Francisco Bay Area, it gets pounded by local fly fishermen.
One day in particular the fishing was tough. I was fishing a run just a few hundred yards from the dam. I could see fish actively feeding but I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to catch them. I adjusted my casting presentation to get different drifts. I adjusted my strike indicator up and down to get different depths. I added and removed split shot to try different depths. After a few hours, I’d gone through every nymph in my fly box with no results.
Then an older gentleman (at least to me at the time) stepped through the brush on the bank behind me. He saw me in the hole and was about to turn and leave when I said hello. He asked “how’s the fishing?” I told him it was a little rough. “Feel free to fish this hole if you want”, I said. “I gave it everything I’ve got. These fish just won’t eat.” The kindly gentleman asked if I was sure and I reassured him that he was free to fish this unproductive piece of water. In my mind, if he got blanked too it would confirm that it was the fish and not me. I pointed out the anorexic trout that I’d been targeting and gave him a halfhearted go-gettem.
He stepped up, took his measure of the water in front of him, and made his first cast with no results. I thought to myself “ See, these fish won’t eat for him either.” He let his nymphs play out in an elegant swing to load his rod then sent his indicator and bugs back up above the holding fish.
His rig landed in the perfect position to get a clean drift right down this fish’s lane. I watched with anticipation as his indicator passed just to the left of the snobbish trout. Expecting a full rejection once again, I saw the fish make a tiny movement to his left and the gentleman’s indicator stopped. He set the hook and proceeded to fight and land a 20 inch rainbow. The fish that I had fished over for hours ate his fly on the second cast.
Dejected and frustrated I asked the man what bug he was using. He pulled out his box and showed me a sparsely tied size 20 PT. The smallest fly I had in my box was a 16. I wasn’t even close.
Seeing my look of frustration, this fine gentleman handed me a couple of those tiny nymphs. As he headed backup the bank on out his way out of the hole, he turned and said “it’s a tailwater son you gotta fish small.”
That was 30 years ago. It was the beginning of my real education on tailwater flyfishing. Whether it’s the Missouri, South Fork, Green River, Lees Ferry, or the Lower Sacramento tailwaters are extremely technical but they can be crazy productive fisheries if you know what you’re doing.
Everybody loves consistency in their life. Tailwater trout are no different. Let’s talk about the difference between a tailwater fishery and a freestone stream. In a nutshell, freestone streams are subject to cyclical rain and drought cycles. As a result, they produce less overall life. High water periods and flood stages tend to scrub the banks of Freestone streams clearing out vegetation and channelizing rivers. While tailwaters may get high flows the dam control generally keeps them from being scrubbed. That means the river retains more biomass including fish and especially insect life. Different species of insects that wouldn’t make it in Freestone streams can thrive in the consistent environment of a tailwater fishery. As a result, food is plentiful for aquatic predators. Namely trout.
Consistent flows have benefits up the food chain. With lots of bugs to eat you can feed a lot more mouths. Which means a river can sustain more fish. It also means that those fish have the potential of reaching much larger size than most average freestone streams.
Sounds great so far, but there is also a drawback. One of the main characteristics of tailwater flyfishing is that it can be very technical.
I like to think of it this way. Freestone streams tend to be far removed from major population centers. They’re wild or country if you will. Tailwaters provide electrical generation, flood, and irrigation control and tend to be closer to population centers. In my mind’s eye, I picture freestone trout as country trout. They tend to be less sophisticated, more forgiving, and more willing to take what nature provides. Gulping down the stonefly one minute and a caddis the next. Since there is less insect life in a Freestone stream there is less opportunity for a country trout to feed so they feed more readily.
Think about road trips you’ve taken. If you’re deep in the backwoods feeling hungry and you pass a burger joint you’re likely to stop because there may not be another opportunity to eat anytime soon.
Closer to urban centers tailwater trout are more like city fish. In the city there’s a lot more traffic so you have to be on your guard. There’s also a lot more opportunity to feed. You can’t drive three city blocks in most urban centers without seeing a Starbucks a McDonald’s or a Panda Express. Your opportunities are endless so you can be picky about your next meal.
The same goes for tailwater trout. With plenty of opportunities to eat on a steady schedule, they can get very selective on what they decide to put in their mouth.
In 30+ years since that kind angler educated me on the banks of Putah Creek I’ve had the opportunity to fish hundreds if not thousands of days on tailwaters across the country. I want to pass on what I’ve learned and hopefully help you put together the pieces of the tailwater flyfishing puzzle to improve your fishing.
First off, not all tailwaters are the same. Putah Creek can’t compare with the Beaverhead River or the San Juan when it comes to fish production. But many of them have very similar characteristics.
To start with, you can count on big, consistent hatches and small flies. Tailwaters like the South Fork of the Snake River boast prolific PMD and Salmonfly hatches. While the Henry’s Fork is famous for Stones and Drakes. I love dry-fly fishing as much as the next person but to have consistent success fishing tailwater’s you need to be good at getting to the trout where they live. So right now we're talking about nymphing tactics.
In a normal article this section comes at the end. I start here because fishing is all about confidence. My first rule on tailwaters is never start with a fly larger than a size 16 unless you have direct verifiable intel from the fly shop that sits on the banks of the river that you are fishing or from a guide that you know you can trust that that is the bug that fish are eating.
In my countless days fishing tailwaters, I can tell you starting with a size 18 or 20 fly gets you in the ballpark. We talked about the biomass tailwater fisheries produce. The vast majority of those insects are size 20 and smaller. Trout get dialed in to smaller flies. So start there.
I hear people talking about how you have to match the insect perfectly when flyfishing tailwaters. This argument takes you to the debate of realistic or impressionistic flies. I’ve had the opportunity to sit underwater for hours with scuba gear on and watch trout feed. My take is when they feed they are processing a “go/no-go” decision. Meaning if it looks like food go get it. If it doesn’t let it go. So whether you choose extremely realistic flies or impressionistic flies is based solely on the confidence it gives you. Remember catching fish is about confidence. The better you feel about your bug the more likely you are to fish it right. The key factors in fly selection areis size 1st, shape second and color third.
For a general rule of thumb, (I get into this in detail in my nymphing article you can find here) the darker the water the darker the fly. Meaning, the deeper you are in the water column the darker the water is going to be. So use a darker fly for your bottom bug. Higher in the water column there’ll be more light penetration which means you should use a lighter fly that also imitates emerging insects for your top bug.
Different rivers have different species of insects. This is where it helps to get local knowledge. By local knowledge, I don’t mean the fly shop on your way that you frequent occasionally. I mean the fly shop on the boat ramp of the river you’re fishing or the guide who’s out fishing every day. Hatches will vary and tailwater trout will key in on different species of insect depending on what’s in the drift. That said, I always start with at least one mayfly on my rig. Unless you know 100% certain that the fish are keyed into caddis, midges, or something else, trout see mayflies all the time and they eat them consistently.
So you’ve got a fly selection you have confidence in. Your darker bug will go on the bottom and you have at least one mayfly in your tandem of flies. They are size 18 or smaller and you’re ready to tie them on. Now let’s talk about how we rig them.
Rods- When it comes to fly rods, I like a utility rod. I want a fast to medium-fast action. Rod choice is entirely subjective, but you can't throw nymphs on a noodle. At the same time, I don’t want my fly rod to feel like a telephone pole in my hand, so I like something light, fast, and responsive with a fast tip that flexes a little further down the rod to load properly for casting nymph an indicator setups. 9' is good. Longer is better for nymphing but can get a little bit unruly if you switch to throwing dries. A typical 9 foot five weight that you’ll find on fly shop shelves will get it done. From there it’s all about personal choice.
You’re going to use a drop-shot rig (see more detail on this rig here) to present your flies. I like a 2 to 3 foot section of florescent Mono tied directly to my fly line to start my leader. I’ve used this setup religiously since back in my 20s before it was called Czech Nymphing. The florescent Mono creates better contrast with the water surface and makes it easier to detect strikes when you’re high sticking. I attach a 7.5 ft leader tapered ro 3 or 4X attached directly to the florescent Mono. That way I still have room to add an indicator when I need to reach out. If I’m fishing shallow I may remove a couple of feet off the top of the tapered leader so I don’t have to manage too much line on the water. I use an improved Uni-knot to attach a 2-foot section of 4X tippet to the end of the tapered leader. I leave an 8-10" tag of line on the downstream side to tie on my first bug on a dropper and leave 6-8" tag for shot for both the fly and a split shot on the bottom of the rig. (Check local regulations because some Fish and Game laws, in an effort to stop people from intentionally “snagging” anadromous fish, make it a violation to put your weight below your flies.)
As a side note, I often see people saying that they “only” use fluorocarbon leaders when their nymphing rigs. They claim that fluorocarbon is less visible and sinks better and that mono floats and therefore your bugs don’t sink as quickly. Maybe… But Mono has an advantage in the fact that it is a softer material and therefore your nymphs act more lifelike. What I’m saying is, if you only have Mono don’t sweat it. I use Mono all the time. I’ve never noticed a difference in terms of sink rates or hookups. I don’t really prefer one over the other.
Next, make sure we have enough weight on our rig to get your flies down where they’re supposed to be. Use enough split shot to keep your bottom bug within 4 to 8 inches of the streambed and your top bug 12 to 18 inches. Fish will hang in softer water in big runs. In almost every piece of water that I’ve fished the softer water is near the bottom.
Finally, when it comes to technique, you can high-stick or you can use an indicator. Different water calls for different tactics. If you’re fishing a river like the Madison where you’re constantly throwing at pocket water then high-sticking is a fantastic way to go. But if you’re fishing water like the lower Sacramento or the South Fork with long deep runs you won’t be able to cover water effectively with a high-stick approach. That’s where a nymph and indicator setup wins. As for indicators, it’s dealers choice. I’ve used everything from stick-on indicators to frayed nylon yarn to Thingamabobbers. I strongly suggest using an indicator that puts a “hinge” in your line for presentation purposes (learn why here). A general rule is the distance from your indicator to your flies should be at least 1.5X the depth of the water. If you’re not setting the hook at least every other cast because your split shot came in contact with the bottom you’re not deep enough. Add weight or extend the distance from your split shot to your indicator. If your bugs are constantly dragging and slowing in the current because they’re constantly in contact with the bottom you’re too deep or too heavy. Remove some weight or shorten the distance between your indicator and your split shot.
Freestone rivers are easy to read. Trout will be hanging tight to the bank where they get a current break and cover, or behind obstructions like boulders, rocks, or debris in the river. They also position on the backsides of deep runs, and in seams. Because of the cyclical flushing freestone waters tend to be channelized and holding water is pretty obvious.
Dam control means tailwaters get less flushing which means there are more potential holding lies. Weed beds are prime spots for big trout to lie in wait for food to come their way. They provide everything that a trout needs. Weeds break the current forming small eddies so fish don’t have to work as hard to maintain their position. Aquatic weeds also offer overhead cover as they wash back and forth. You should focus hard on long flat runs with good flow and weed beds. Fish will hang off of either side of the grass, on the backend under the overhanging greenery and in holes that may look covered but provide sanctuary for trout.
Every river has a certain number of hidden soft spots but tailwaters, because of the abundance of trout have more targets of opportunity. Holding lies can be anywhere.
You may make a lot of casts at the banks in a tailwater but you don’t have to hug the bank to find fish. Many of the biggest fish in tailwaters are dead smack in the middle of runs, hiding behind boulders weed beds or other submerged cover. Likely holding lies in a tailwater include runs, seams, inside bends and outside edges of turns in the river. Oftentimes you’ll find seams on inside bends on the edge of runs. Anytime you have great holding water make sure you work it thoroughly.
Finally, because there are so many opportunities on tailwater fisheries we often forget the water nearest to us. Don't forget the water at your feet. (I'm guilty of this) if you’re a wade fisherman you’ll be stirring up silt and bugs and oftentimes trout will line up just downstream from your position. On New Mexico’s world-famous San Juan River they call this the ”San Juan Shuffle”.
Some guys say only short casts and tight line high-stick nymphing will work. Others say you need to cast nymph and indicators far off and downstream then stack a bunch of line to get a drag-free drift so that you don’t spook a tailwater’s educated trout. I'm a fan of all of the above. Your technique should match water types. Use whatever technique you need to work the water thoroughly and effectively.
If you’re going to high-stick, cast upstream about 10’ from where you want your files and shot to make contact with the river bottom. An average trout will move up to 18” for a bug. Get your flies where you want them 2-3 feet before reaching the sexy lie. Stay in contact with your flies. In tight-line nymphing or Euro-nymphing, you're leading the bugs not following them.
I had the opportunity to fish with the captain of Team USA Fly Fishing on a number of occasions back when the Polish team (my people) was dominating the world in fly fishing. He described me the technique they used which is high-sticking but moving the bugs just faster than the current. That way when a fish grabs you almost don’t have to set the hook. You come tight and it’s game on. It’s a very effective technique when used properly. You’re not ripping them downstream they are just going imperceptibly faster than the current.
Nymph and indicator fishing actually creates the same effect with your bugs. Because the water at the surface is moving faster than the water at the bottom of your flies are moving just faster than the current that the fish is sitting in. The trick with nymph and indicator fishing is to get a drag-free drift to your indicator by using slack line on the water surface while still being able to set the hook effectively.
There’s an old coaching axiom that goes “You miss 100% of the shots that you don’t take.” When it comes to nymphing the same is true. You need to set the hook often. Anytime your indicator stops, pauses, twitches, or does anything else unnatural set the hook. Hooksets are free and it won’t disrupt that much fishing. I’m not saying you try to rip off the bulkhead as you set the hook. Just swiftly lift the rod tip and come tight to your bugs. If there’s no fish then use the motion as a mend and let the drift continue. At worst you’ll bump your bugs off the bottom for a foot or so with each set. At best you’ll come tight with a trophy trout. Make sure you are setting your hook all the time. It should almost become a nervous tick. You miss 100% of the fish you don’t set the hook on.
O.K. you say, “I’ve tried everything and is still not working what now.” Anglers have a tendency to pick up and leave spots when they’re fishing tailwaters because they think that there are no fish or the fish that are there aren’t eating. If you do a little bit of math at just 4000 fish per linear mile (which is a really low number for a lot of tailwater’s) there is a fish every for every 1.3 feet per mile of river. Those fish are distributed throughout the system meaning they’re not lined up head to tail. But that is a lot of fish. Likely they’re all on a pattern and behaving in the same manner. They’ll be hanging in great water with transitions and edges feeding on the same bugs. Even if you’re not catching fish it’s not likely that the fish aren’t there. It’s more likely that the fish in front of you aren’t eating what you’re throwing or aren’t digging the way you’re throwing it.
Trout have to feed, to survive. It’s your job to figure out the trigger that gets them to open their mouths. The truth is, on a tailwater fish get even more selective (remember the fast food comparison above). So pound them hard and go through a checklist.
Once you find what’s working fish it hard. When you find it early it can be an amazing day.
if I’m on a tailwater and fish aren’t eating here is the checklist of changes I make in the order that I make them:
1. Make absolutely certain you're getting your flies in the strike zone. If you’re not hitting bottom you’re not deep enough.
2. Set the hook on everything. Oftentimes tailwater trout will damn-near rip the rod out your hand when you’ve got the pattern right (The Beaverhead is like that. You can see my Beaverhead video here). But sometimes they can be subtle. If you suspect in the slightest your bugs have been grabbed set the hook.
3. Be stealthier. Reduce your noise reduce your profile and try not to do anything to alert the fish to your presence. I see people talking about sneaking up and crawling to a river’s banks. They start whis[erring at the car… I think that takes it a bit too far. I catch tailwater trout from drift boats all the time and there’s no way to hide one of those. But don’t trigger their survival instinct by making a big ruckus. The less they know you’re there the better.
4 people are always shocked when I tell them my fourth or fifth move is to make a fly change. I just have so much confidence in the size 18 or 20 bugs with the mayfly as at least one of the patterns for tailwater fishing because they work all the time. That said, if you are going to change your bug think about changing colors as much as patterns. If you started dark go light if you started light go dark. Do something that completely contrasts the bugs you had before. It could be a light penetration issue or there could be a certain species of bug in the drift that you can’t recognize from the surface. Maybe use a bead head or switch from a bead head to a standard pattern. I would still stay small and use 2 different styles of insect until I find the bug they want.
5. Switch out to a smaller tippet.
I’m not sold that trout eating nymphs get leader shy. During my underwater study I could see every tippet on every fly that I looked at. I’ve also caught 20+ inch fish in gin-clear water on size 20 flies that were tied to 3X tippet. I’ve caught them on mono and I’ve caught them on fluoro. But if all else fails and your at the point of pure frustration change at your tippet go smaller. The lighter tippet will allow your fly to move more naturally and that may be the trigger. Anything to keep the confidence up and keep you focused on what you’re doing.
Finally, it’s always good to get local knowledge. If it’s your first time fishing a tailwater you might try hiring a guide. These guys make a living by finding and catching fish. I have fished with hundreds of guides, shop owners and professional fishermen over the years. I can’t tell you how much I’ve learned from their collective knowledge. Any good guide or tailwater outfitter has something new to teach you and I’m always up for learning new techniques when I’m fishing.
Here are a few more considerations for fly fishing tailwaters. Because these rivers are dam controlled the fluctuations aren’t generally huge but they can be substantial and make a big difference in your fishing. For instance during the summer months the lower Sacramento which is one of my home waters will run consistently around 15,000 cfs (Cubic feet per second). That is a ton of water. The majority of that goes to the Central Valley to irrigate valley farmers’ crops as well as provide drinking water for the population. Oftentimes a fluctuation of just 5% or 750 cfs will get the fish to move. Meanwhile, at Lee’s Ferry the Colorado River may fluctuate as much as 10,000 ft.³ per second in a day. One day while I was fishing in the Canyon the river started at 7000 ft.³ per second in the morning and finished at 17,000 ft.³ per second in the evening as they tried to crank out enough energy to provide for Phoenix and Tucson’s air conditioning. The river more than doubled in size which means the fish had to move to adapt and my fishing had to adapt with it.
Remember the more flows change the more the fish will have to change their behavior and their position in order to feed and survive. So try different water types if the river is fluctuating while you are fishing.
Most dams have a posted release schedule. Be sure to check it because a big outflow or a big decrease in outflow could negatively affect the fishing in your river and ruin a fishing trip. You can always check your river’s current flow status here (USGS River Flows).
There’s also a safety issue when it comes to river flows on tailwaters. One day while I was fishing the American River just east of Sacramento California, I waded out into knee-deep water and started casting my nymphs. Within a matter of five minutes, the water was at my waist and climbing. I wasn’t aware there was going to be a dam release but clearly, they were spilling water. Had I been on the far side of the river I would’ve been trapped in the Canyon. By the time they finished releasing water the river became un-wadable. Always be safe and pay attention to what’s going on around you if there’s a potential for water fluctuation.
Tailwaters are some of the most productive water you’ll ever fish. High fish counts per linear mile, larger than average fish and bountiful opportunities can make for incredible fishing days. Try using these techniques and your contact rate will improve.
